In search of the world’s finest coffees, my exploration led me to the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), the organization responsible for determining the benchmarks for what the public often refers to as “gourmet” coffee. All specialty coffees are made from arabica beans, which are superior in taste to the other bean category, robusta. These arabica beans are cultivated at higher altitudes compared to robusta beans and come in several varieties.
Coffee, being the second most traded commodity globally, is assessed similarly to wine in an event known as a “cupping,” adhering to stringent standards. Winning a cupping directly affects the price a coffee farmer can demand for his harvest and is a prestigious accolade.
Historical records of “cupping” winners reveal that the majority come from three regions — Ethiopia, Sumatra, and Panama. Intriguingly, these regions share a similar latitude on the world map.
Ethiopian/Kenyan Coffee (Africa)
Ethiopian coffee, known for its aromatic and robust flavor, is often ranked among the world’s best coffees. It is also considered the birthplace of all coffee. According to an Ethiopian folk tale, a goat herder discovered Ethiopian coffee around 850 AD when he noticed his goats dancing excitedly after eating red berries from a tree. The herder tasted the berries himself, and the rest, as they say, is history — whether factual or mythical.
Ethiopian coffee is traditionally used in religious ceremonies, which continue to this day, offering a profoundly moving experience for any invited guest. Locally, Ethiopian coffee is served with sugar or, in some regions, salt. Milk or creamer is never used. The method of preparing the coffee differs by region, with some opting for dry processing and others preferring washing. Most Ethiopian coffee available on the market today is dry processed.
The labor-intensive process, along with importation costs, contributes to the high price of Ethiopian coffee. When buying Ethiopian coffee for home brewing, choosing fair trade Ethiopian coffee ensures that the producers are adequately compensated for their efforts.
Sumatran Coffee (Indonesia)
Originating from the Indonesian island of Sumatra, Sumatran coffee is known for its unique spicy, herbal flavor. Introduced by the Dutch around 1699 to meet Europe’s growing coffee demand, Sumatran coffee beans are distinctively irregularly shaped and bright green.
Sumatran coffee is a highly regarded coffee variety due to its low acidity. The beans are typically organically grown in full sunlight without the use of chemicals. One particular type of Sumatran coffee, the kopi luwak, is controversial yet popular. This coffee is made from beans that have been eaten and excreted by a small creature called a luwak. These beans are then collected, cleaned, and roasted.
When purchasing Sumatran coffee for home use, it’s advisable to buy fair trade to ensure the coffee growers are fairly compensated for their effort. Sumatran coffee’s unique taste may soon make it one of your favorite coffees.
Panamanian Coffee (Central America)
Despite being the smallest coffee-producing country, Panama consistently produces some of the highest-rated coffees. The coffee-growing region is centered around the town of Boquete in the western province of Chiriqui, close to the Costa Rican border. Some argue that Panama has the perfect microclimate for coffee cultivation, with northern winds, light mist, and cool breezes.
The coffee is handpicked, washed, and sun-dried on farms known as Estate coffees, named after the specific farm it comes from. The farms maintain a close relationship with the local communities, providing social, medical, and educational services, hence fair trade is not a significant concern.
For many years, Panamanian coffee was not well-known among the general public, although its quality was recognized by traders. One trader was even caught selling the less expensive Panamanian coffee beans as the more renowned and expensive Hawaiian Kona beans.
Today, Panamanian coffee has gained recognition, winning numerous cuppings. In fact, in 2003, the competition format was changed because Panamanian entries would often win up to half of the ten awards.
While the world’s palate may favor western coffees, any true coffee aficionado should venture out and taste the best coffees of the world. Try the Ethiopian and Sumatran coffees, as well as coffees from regions nearby. You might be pleasantly surprised by what you’ve been missing.
